Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

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C.Costine
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by C.Costine » Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:43 am

PBJ, your car is very similar to how mine was. I used some of the available repair panels. I used the ones for there bottoms of the front fenders, and the rear arch and rocker panel for the right side. I started at the left front and worked my way around so after awhile I got a feel for how much the the repair panels would save me. I cut patterns out of light cardboard for pretty much all of the replacement pieces that I made. I didn't have to do my inner rear fenders, but I would suggest trying to make a pattern by cutting a roughly shaped piece then cutting out triangular pieces from the bottom to make it curve the way you need it to. I made my own replacement rocker panel caps by bending into a half cylinder shape then bending and welding the end.
rt rock in place.JPG
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located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn

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PBJ
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Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ » Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:46 pm

C.Costine wrote:
Sat Mar 17, 2018 11:43 am
PBJ, your car is very similar to how mine was. I used some of the available repair panels. I used the ones for there bottoms of the front fenders, and the rear arch and rocker panel for the right side. I started at the left front and worked my way around so after awhile I got a feel for how much the the repair panels would save me. I cut patterns out of light cardboard for pretty much all of the replacement pieces that I made. I didn't have to do my inner rear fenders, but I would suggest trying to make a pattern by cutting a roughly shaped piece then cutting out triangular pieces from the bottom to make it curve the way you need it to. I made my own replacement rocker panel caps by bending into a half cylinder shape then bending and welding the end.

rt rock in place.JPG
Thanks! I appreciate the photos. I have been looking at a few ways to do it. Recently I acquired a complete rocker that might be salvageable, but I have to dig into it soon to see what will work. If that doesn't work then I will look at a solution like this.
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

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PBJ
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ » Wed Apr 04, 2018 8:59 pm

I have been traveling for work and therefore not getting as much done as I hoped. I recently received the lower seals that I was missing and thought I would get the suspension together. I spent a little time with POR 15 applying it to some of the areas I had cleaned up but that stuff is a bit spiteful and seemed to have some adhesion issues. I am trying to figure out what it is that I missed when I was cleaning the metal.

I pulled the drivers side brake caliper apart to see what the next steps were. I haven't seen the guide pin in other brakes before, but the bigger interest was the coating of rust. on the inside of the piston.
41101096682_58863f8089_z.jpg
39335324010_49333bbff6_z.jpg
I believe I will be able to restore these, but I have a little work to do in order to get them back to a safe condition.

This past weekend I arrived back from a work trip when I saw all the Easter sales at Harbor freight. For $100 I walked away with a new Sand Blast cabinet and media, this should help make some quicker progress of some of the rust repair.
HFBC.jpg
I actually spent a bit of time on Sunday fixing the gun so it would work...

I am hoping to get the drivers side reassembled this weekend and start working on the passenger side.
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Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

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theunz
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Location: Catoosa Ok.

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by theunz » Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:11 pm

Highly recommend that you get a full size tube of silicone caulk and go after all the seems on your cabinet. If you look on line you can find out how to make a cheap filter using a shop vac and a 5 gal pail with some water in it. Also you need a pretty big compressor to make the gun work well.
__________

Mike M
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. 1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable!

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PBJ
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Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ » Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:18 pm

theunz wrote:
Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:11 pm
Highly recommend that you get a full size tube of silicone caulk and go after all the seems on your cabinet. If you look on line you can find out how to make a cheap filter using a shop vac and a 5 gal pail with some water in it. Also you need a pretty big compressor to make the gun work well.
It seems that HF has figured out a bunch of this, the cabinet came with a full size tube of Caulk! My compressor holds up to the volume of air, but the trigger on the gun would hang up every time you pulled it and bend the plunger. I made a modification to the track the plunger rides on and it seems to work fine now. I have seen some folks saying to replace the gun with the $20 eastwood gun, but I can't see that they are very different from the photos. It works great right now, but I do need to seal it all up. I also need to build up a wall by the door to force the abrasive to fall back into the cabinet rather than fall out whenever I open the door!

Thanks!
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

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theunz
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Location: Catoosa Ok.

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by theunz » Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:29 pm

You can tee off your air line and run a second hose into the cabinet with a blow gun on it and blow the sand away from the door before opening it. It's also good for blowing the media off your parts as well. When your ready for new media don't go back to HF just find a foundry supply store and buy 40 or 50 lb bags of either crushed glass or, if your willing to spend the extra money, glass beads. The crushed glass is the best bang for the buck and only cost a little more than the sand mix.
__________

Mike M
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. 1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable!

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PBJ
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Location: Colorado

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by PBJ » Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:50 pm

theunz wrote:
Wed Apr 04, 2018 9:29 pm
You can tee off your air line and run a second hose into the cabinet with a blow gun on it and blow the sand away from the door before opening it. It's also good for blowing the media off your parts as well. When your ready for new media don't go back to HF just find a foundry supply store and buy 40 or 50 lb bags of either crushed glass or, if your willing to spend the extra money, glass beads. The crushed glass is the best bang for the buck and only cost a little more than the sand mix.
Thanks! I have a friend that works at an aerospace company and I have recently discovered that they discard their glass beads well before they are used up, so I think I may have a revolving supply of beads in the near future. I'll use up this media before I get there. It was interesting to find out that the "glass beads" at HF were actually crushed glass. Thanks for the tip on the T for an air line!
Josh
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

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theunz
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Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 1:54 pm
Location: Catoosa Ok.

Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Post by theunz » Wed Apr 04, 2018 10:00 pm

Glad to help out. There must be something addictive in the dust, I seem to be always looking for something to blast! I must have put a couple of hundred hours on mine in the last couple of years. Just so rewarding to see grungy parts transformed into new condition right before your eyes.
__________

Mike M
1969 2000 solex mine since 1972, under resurrection. 1969 Porsche 911s -worth more, but not as valuable!