Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

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C.Costine
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby C.Costine » Tue Apr 19, 2016 4:53 am

PBJ wrote:
C.Costine wrote:
I often change up what phase I work on to keep it interesting. My current favorite paint removal weapon is a coarse, around #40, flap wheel.


Something like this?
image.jpeg


I've used flap discs, but never flap wheels, I was afraid it would be as hard on the metal as a flap disc is.

I've been using poly carbide discs, which work well but don't last very long.

image.jpeg


No the flaps are horizontal, or mounted at 90 degrees to the one that you show. I also tried the poly carbide strippers but found as you did that they were expensive to use.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn

orangedawg
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby orangedawg » Tue Apr 19, 2016 9:51 am

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gnob
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby gnob » Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:10 am

For the $$$ the HF discs and flappers suuuck.
I've been using dewalt stuff. Significant longevity diff

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PBJ
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby PBJ » Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:13 am

gnob wrote:For the $$$ the HF discs and flappers suuuck.
I've been using dewalt stuff. Significant longevity diff


I tried on of the poly carbide discs from dewalt and didn't notice a big difference so I've been using up the $3 version from Harbor Freight instead of the $7 version from Home Depot. I do agree for cutoff wheels and flap discs though, there is a significant difference with those. Have you noticed a difference with the Poly discs? Is there a specific grit or anything, maybe I missed something

I have always liked the flap disc for metal work but I've been apprehensive to use it for paint removal, it'll definitely take metal off quick if you aren't careful
Last edited by PBJ on Tue Apr 19, 2016 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

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Mainer311
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby Mainer311 » Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:34 am

Have you guys tried Aircraft paint remover? That stuff will melt paint right off. I sprayed the entire bed of my truck with it, and hosed all the paint right off.

If you go that route, WEAR GLOVES!
Jordan
1968 SPL311-21773. Needs paint and some upholstery.
2012 Xterra Pro-4X, 4" lift on 34's, UCA's, pre-runner bumper. Member of the New England Xterra Off-road club.

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PBJ
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby PBJ » Tue Apr 19, 2016 10:53 am

Mainer311 wrote:Have you guys tried Aircraft paint remover? That stuff will melt paint right off. I sprayed the entire bed of my truck with it, and hosed all the paint right off.

If you go that route, WEAR GLOVES!


I've used that, but this thing had so much bondo that I don't really think it would work. I have been joking with my shop mates that whoever did bodywork on this car was trying to scale it up to a larger size!
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

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PBJ
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby PBJ » Fri Apr 22, 2016 6:43 pm

Today my mom was visiting from Pennsylvania and she wanted to do a little work on the Datsun. She wasn't messing around either!

image.jpeg

image.jpeg


We removed the rest of the original fender and started working on patch steel for the rusty areas.

I now have an Eastwood shrinker/stretcher as well as forming dies for the bead roller. So I figured we could make something work.

We took some time finding the shape with paper and a pencil then moved on to tracing paterns onto some sheet metal. I am using 20g cold rolled for this stuff, it seems to match what's in the car.

With the paterns made we rolled a lip, rolled a flare then used a hammer and dolley to fold over the lip the rest of the way.

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

image.jpeg


The car now has quite a few patch panels made, I really need to start cutting and fitting them!

I'll be racing the next weekend or two but I'm really excited to get these panels fit and welded
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1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

JohnnyMac
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby JohnnyMac » Fri Apr 22, 2016 6:47 pm

Too cool. Just think of all the things you could get her for Mother's Day!
John

SRL311-05287

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PBJ
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby PBJ » Fri Apr 22, 2016 11:37 pm

JohnnyMac wrote:Too cool. Just think of all the things you could get her for Mother's Day!


My mom loves trying new things and this is definitely one of them. I have actually driven a tank with my mom in the past so she is pretty adventurous!
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

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PBJ
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby PBJ » Wed Apr 27, 2016 12:26 pm

Well, before my mom left she did two things, first, she helped repair the race car...

image.jpeg

image.jpeg


Second she got me a birthday present! Looks like I have a lot to learn!

image.jpeg
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1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

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dynaguy
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby dynaguy » Thu Apr 28, 2016 4:37 pm

The poly discs wear very well if you use light pressure and stay away from sharp edges. FWIW Pat

C.Costine
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby C.Costine » Thu Apr 28, 2016 6:59 pm

PBJ wrote:Well, before my mom left she did two things, first, she helped repair the race car...

image.jpeg
image.jpeg

Second she got me a birthday present! Looks like I have a lot to learn!

image.jpeg


You definitely have a very cool and good looking mom. We now know that you are a very young fellow among us mostly old guys. I have gotten flap wheels from multiple places including the welding supply. That is all they use for cleaning metal on their industrial work. I don't see much difference one brand to another. And of course there is a wide range of grit just as in sandpaper.
located in Chester NH
1967 1600 in restoration
2013 Arctic Cat F-1100 turbo
Ford F-350 6.0
Ford 9000 puller, Ford 960 puller, Ford 901show, Ford 971 worker, Oliver 70 waiting its turn

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dynaguy
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby dynaguy » Thu Apr 28, 2016 8:19 pm

The flaps wheels can be made of alumina oxide (usually brown color), zirconia (usually blue/green) or ceramic (red/orange). The alumina oxide are best for mild steel, zirconia take down welds faster and wear longer, ceramic last the longest and are best for alloys. Hogging down hard on any of them develops excessive heat and cause them to prematurely wear. FWIW Pat

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PBJ
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby PBJ » Fri Apr 29, 2016 1:41 pm

dynaguy wrote:The poly discs wear very well if you use light pressure and stay away from sharp edges. FWIW Pat


I think it has a lot to do with the sheer amount of bondo that I am going through right now on this car. Though I am hopefully that I have gotten through the bulk of it at this point... time will tell.

C.Costine wrote:You definitely have a very cool and good looking mom. We now know that you are a very young fellow among us mostly old guys. I have gotten flap wheels from multiple places including the welding supply. That is all they use for cleaning metal on their industrial work. I don't see much difference one brand to another. And of course there is a wide range of grit just as in sandpaper.


Well, young is certainly based on your perspective. I'm seeing that 40 mark come up very soon!

I have a stock of #40 flap paddles that I use for metal forming fairly regularly and they hold up nicely to that type of work. I am apprehensive to use them for paint removal... I need something that won't go through the metal if my mind wanders off to another place.

dynaguy wrote:The flaps wheels can be made of alumina oxide (usually brown color), zirconia (usually blue/green) or ceramic (red/orange). The alumina oxide are best for mild steel, zirconia take down welds faster and wear longer, ceramic last the longest and are best for alloys. Hogging down hard on any of them develops excessive heat and cause them to prematurely wear. FWIW Pat


I am pretty sure I have mostly had blue and brown and mostly used them for cleaning up the edges of metal I have cut and light metal shaping as well. Thanks for the info!
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.

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PBJ
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Re: Partial restoration of my 1968 1600

Postby PBJ » Sat Apr 30, 2016 3:58 pm

I had a little help today from a good friend. It was time to start cutting in and welding these patch panels that I have been making. I cleaned up the welder and got started.

The first part I tackled today was the rear passenger fender patch. I made this part with my mom a few days ago and had to get it in the car. I made the cuts and did a bit of fitting otherwise before tacking it in place.

image.jpeg


Once it was all ready I welded the rest of it and put a touch of primer on there. I am very pleased with how this came out. It is still very visible as a patch (to me at least) but for the inner fender I think it looks great.

image.jpeg


We moved on to the A pillar, I made this piece a long time ago, but finally actually welded it in.

image.jpeg


Once welded I threw some primer on

image.jpeg


Today was a short day. But I feel like a good amount was accomplished. I still need to fit the footwell panel. That will be next time.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
1968 1600 - Frame-on restoration.
1970 VW Bug - Long Course Offroad car in Class 11 build configuration
1995 BMW 318ti - Short course Rallyx Car with s50 M3 swap
2006 Subaru WRX - Daily driver and occasional Ice Racer.


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