1968 Roadster 1600 - Mild restoration

[sexton]

So, this past weekend I finally got the body pulled off the frame. I've got some swiss cheese that needs to be removed in the floor, so that's first on the list and the primary reason for pulling the body. Initial plans are just to clean up the frame, por-15 it, do the floor pans, fix a fiberglassed inner fender, and pop it back on the frame and hopefully get it driving by summer again. Mechanically, I've gotta replace/figure out why there's a missing exhaust stud, replace/fix exhaust, boil out/seal the gas tank, replace fuel lines, and give everything a good once over! Hopefully I don't get into too much of a "while I'm here" sort of mood. Will post some more photos later to show what I'm working with. Luckily, the frame seems in pretty solid shape.

side_removed.jpg

front_removed.jpg

[Skyman]

That sounds like a great plan. Unless you get the "while I'm here" syndrome. Looks real nice and clean.

[sexton]

To give a brief idea of what's hiding, lets start with the 'prior to fiberglass removal'.

floor_pan_before.jpg

The fiberglass is starting to deteriorate. It wasn't applied well - it's very porous and coming loose in several locations. Especially in the drivers side of the floor pan where brake fluid has leaked into the cabin.

passenger2.jpg

passenger.jpg

Tonight, I started the cleanup and cut process. The passenger side, I'll likely be cutting 3 sections. I'm not fond of removing too large of a section at once. On the passenger side, the rust is mostly along the left side of the pan, running all the way back, along the large ridged section, and of course in the most forward section of the pan.

[sexton]

So two months later, I'm almost ready to rejoin the body to the frame. Finished up the passenger floor:

pass_floor.jpg

Finished up the drivers side as well:

drivers_side.jpg

Cleaned up/reboxed the fender rocker corners and welded in new cage nuts to attach the fenders with:

drivers_corner.jpg

Replaced part of the passengers side inner fender which was essentially non-existent after removing the hidden fiberglass that provided next to no rigidity.

innerFender.jpg

Got the frame cleaned up and painted with some por-15.

frame_painted.jpg

Hoping to get the body reattached this week. I cut new frame pads out of some ultra strength neoprene rubber (50A) from 3m and drilled them out. Haven't decided what to replace the body pads with yet. Awaiting a shipment from Z-therapy with the new carbs. Next on the list is putting in the sound proofing/deadener, new carpet, patching up a spot on the inner fender, and starting reassembly of the various pieces. Hoping to have it driving again by mid-may! It may not look much better (probably worse) but I feel better knowing that most of the 'hidden' rust has been removed and taken care of. Maybe next winter I'll focus on some of the body work that needs to be done.

[RCMike]

Nice!

[FairladySPL]

Psst: You will probably want to explore the reason there was a leak of brake fluid onto the floor pan ...



Otherwise, good show.

[notoptoy]

Great work, coming along very nicely!

[sexton]

Psst: You will probably want to explore the reason there was a leak of brake fluid onto the floor pan ...



Otherwise, good show.

Yep, that's in the list as well.

[Linda]

Great job you are earning your Roadster with hard work!

Linda

[sexton]

So, I pulled off the master cylinder tonight. Pulled the front piston, no apparent pitting , no significant scoring. It looks like it might have been rebuilt in the past - but there was a bunch of sludge/crust near the outer seal. The seal on the piston doesn't look torn or worn - do they compress or something over time that can cause leaking? I'm half tempted to clean it up well and put it back together, but knowing my luck, it'll just start leaking again. The rod isn't egged out, it looks nice and round. I also noticed a lot of kind of hard crust built up all over the outside of the master cylinder as well. It appears to be an original.

I see Dean has a rebuild kit for $119 but that seems pretty steep. Does anyone have a Datsun part number for it? Does anyone have any other after market rebuild kits they've used that might be a bit more economical?

Any other thoughts?

[mraitch]

check out www.carpartsmanual.com for part numbers
check techwiki for substitutes

[FairladySPL]

Maybe someone actually changed the fluid, bled the brakes, and spooged the fluid up and out of an uncapped reservoir, which then leaked where you found it.

Had the brake fluid become discolored or was it still fairly clear by the time you got the car?

It could also be one of those leaks that happens when things get real hot, like repeated braking in a short amount of time, etc.

Brakes are one of those things I willingly spend what it takes for first class parts. Since you plan to keep the car a while, you will have invested in a new master cylinder that you will get years of reliable, safe use from. A rebuild kit just buys you time = somewhat shorter duration.

[Jujuman]

So, I pulled off the master cylinder tonight. Pulled the front piston, no apparent pitting , no significant scoring. It looks like it might have been rebuilt in the past - but there was a bunch of sludge/crust near the outer seal. The seal on the piston doesn't look torn or worn - do they compress or something over time that can cause leaking? I'm half tempted to clean it up well and put it back together, but knowing my luck, it'll just start leaking again. The rod isn't egged out, it looks nice and round. I also noticed a lot of kind of hard crust built up all over the outside of the master cylinder as well. It appears to be an original.

I see Dean has a rebuild kit for $119 but that seems pretty steep. Does anyone have a Datsun part number for it? Does anyone have any other after market rebuild kits they've used that might be a bit more economical?

Any other thoughts?

I have the same crusting on the forward master cylinder at the cap valve (parts manual 32/33). perhaps leak at the washer:
is 31 GASKET-CAP VALVE 46036-30100 a crush copper washer?

[Linda]

The Tech Wiki has info on the 510 dual master w part number which can used w a adapter so that Roadster lines work. Works great.
Linda