What did you do TO or FOR your Datsun today?(Roadsters only)

[GoldHawg]

I continued helping my friend David get corrupted with Datsun stuff today; we installed JT's flexforms and rear Bilsteins (we'd done the fronts a couple of weeks ago). He also tried out my Rota's; I think he'll go this route. His fenders were already rolled, and the 205 55 15 fit just fine.

[notoptoy]

Funny, I am installing the FF's today also. I ended up removing the aluminum block, as is would have lowered my car too much. I took photos of the height differences and will post in a different topic when done. Of note the FF's weigh about 7 pounds, the old Leaf springs (67.5) weigh 20 pounds each. BIG difference.

[C.Costine]

After probably ten hours of struggle I got the wiper gear motor in and wipers on and working. I have two tips for anyone who is planning to remove the gear motor. 1. when removing the gear motor and the two linking arms label the two arms left and right. 2. keep track of the little steel sleeves that go through the rubber cushion mounts. I would suggest glueing them in with RTV silicone.

[Curtis]

If I didn't have a 2nd car to look at I would be screwed.

What piece goes where?

[GoldHawg]

Funny, I am installing the FF's today also. I ended up removing the aluminum block, as is would have lowered my car too much. I took photos of the height differences and will post in a different topic when done. Of note the FF's weigh about 7 pounds, the old Leaf springs (67.5) weigh 20 pounds each. BIG difference.

Looking forward to it. I also wondered if it was too much, but thought we can always go back in and replace it later (since we were already done. I also have some 1/4" aluminum plate already cut for this; so it would be right in between. Your pictures should help make the call.

[notoptoy]

So a quick comparison of the springs, at resting height. Not sure if my springs were any different from stock, as the rear end seemed lowered, regardless I like the current ride height and did not want to go a full inch lower. I am removing the block and it will likely still be about a 1/2 inch lower. Will see when I get it back on the ground. Ran into a few snafu's and am taking the time to clean and paint all the parts I remove.

[Gregs672000]

Just wait until you experience the change... once you're comfortable, go hit some corners... I'll wait... I know what you're gonna say...

[AC77]

After a long long break due to a string of extremely bad luck, I was finally able to escape to my garage this weekend and was able to kick some butt and get stuff done:

- replaced fuel filter and gasket with rubber
- replaced valve cover gasket with rubber
- replaced fuses and cleaned connections to fix horn issue
- replaced the gauge voltage regulator
- replaced oil pan gasket
- fresh oil and filter
- new speedo cable
- installed rebuilt speedo
- replaced dash pad twisties
- replaced clutch slave cylinder, bled and adjust clutch

And finally, got to take her on a 10 minute drive with my little 10 year old helper before it got too late. All of the time cramped in small spaces, totally worth it!

[greydog]

I decided Saturday would be a good day to change the tail and front signal lights to LED so ordered from Amazon and popped 'em in. The 4 way mechanical relay works but I had to trade out the turn signal relay for a solid state one.
Tail lights went easily. Driver side front was no problem cut the passenger side front seemed stuck. I worked it out and when I installed the LED light, the bulb was loose.
Aw crap....jack up the car, pull the housing, unplug up front and pull the housing.
Sure enough, the contacts are stuck. I took it apart and found out that there is no bakelite plate in the back for the sprint to push against and the spring is too short. Luckily I had a replacement set so I used the spring and back bakelite plate to rebuild the factory housing.
Now it all works as it should but I had to cut off the two factory bullet connector to feed the wires thru the bakelite plate holes. Not a big deal, I'll just install a couple of new bullets I got from Vintage Conections.....except I seem to be out of bullet connectors. Now I'm waiting for my gal in Brown to deliver more later this week.

Wow,I always seem to manage to turn a simple job into a daisy chain of repair/replace that takes 5 times long and costs 4 times as much as it was supposed to.

Dan

[Gregs672000]

So a quick comparison of the springs, at resting height. Not sure if my springs were any different from stock, as the rear end seemed lowered, regardless I like the current ride height and did not want to go a full inch lower. I am removing the block and it will likely still be about a 1/2 inch lower. Will see when I get it back on the ground. Ran into a few snafu's and am taking the time to clean and paint all the parts I remove.

I don't think you're going to know until it's fully loaded on the ground. I went from an inch and a half block to a 1 inch and could not be happier. If the end mounts are the same as mine, they can be flipped around and that changes ride height as well... not sure how you were set up (mine came unattached with bolting and gluing instructions and the ride height info above. I set mine for the lower setting). I have Comp springs up front. Taking into account 205 50/15 tires size, I'm about 7.5 inches off the ground, measured at the rear side of the axle just after the u-bolt plates, measured ground to spring (no plates etc).
I can hardly wait until you come back from hitting some rough patches you used to cringe on . We just got back from a mountain trip and the car is a joy to drive.

[notoptoy]

I have yet to do the write up, but I finished at 5:12PM and took a quick (Really quick) ride of 20 minutes as I had to get cleaned up for a flight and had zero time left. I went without the lowering block and the end height was actually 1 inch HIGHER than pre installation. The good news is, I am happy with the inch lift as far as the look and the rake (it's almost negligible visually). The quick spin showed the ride to be smoother for the most part, but much bouncier on bumps than with the springs I had. JT let me know that the shocks are easily tuned - so until I can experiment I will reserve judgement.
The springs, so far - and with VERY limited use - are not as transformative as the shocks alone were. Again, much more time needed before I can say anything definitive.
The installation was straightforward, as JT's come assembled and ready to install with lowering block and required extended u-bolts - which I did not need.

[Gregs672000]

What lbs rate are the JT flex forms? I think mine were 240lbs. I did go from completely worn out rear Comp springs to the flex forms. The Gas Adjusts could not control the spring; the revalved Koni's could but were harsh. The Bs are perfect, firm but with a bit of forgiveness that allows it to absorb the bumps. Rebound is very well controlled and improved over the Koni... the car glides now compared to the past and the suspension absorbs the bumps instead of transferring it to the car. I'm hoping that this is what you find!

BTW, a change in rake will change how the car responds. Raising the rear a 1/2 inch has made the car better and more neutral in the turns, with sharper turn in. I was probably to low in the rear before. Just be aware!

[CART418]

What are you guys with JT’s flex forms and bilsteins running for Shock pressure?

[Gregs672000]

What are you guys with JT’s flex forms and bilsteins running for Shock pressure?

You would have to ask JT.

[notoptoy]

What are you guys with JT’s flex forms and bilsteins running for Shock pressure?

I don't know, I told JT I wanted a touring version. They were perfect with the leaf springs, but I think I need to reduce the pressure to reduce the rebound bounce I am getting with the FF's. I really hate to comment until I can get some more righteous time with the setup. He did give me info on where I could try them at different rates.