5 spd leak

[MrGuts]

Hiya!
Looks like steady rains this winter, so its time for upgrades on Spike!
Bought some new parts on Black Friday, more on that later in the 'Garm's Build' thread
With the upgrades I have planned and the small leak from the 5 spd since we got Spike, the motor/trans are coming out.

So...where to take the trans? The leak presents itself out of the gap between the poor fitted clutch boot and bell housing. Its not the clutch leaking, its gear oil. No slipping on clutch, just the annoying leak. Where should I have this leak fixed? Will an experienced trans shop do? Or should I just get this to a NoCal, SoCal expert straight away?

THANKS

[Gregs672000]

No idea on the trans, not being local. I do have a question for you however... does this engine have the Aasco Motorsports aluminum flywheel on it? If so, will you let me know? Also, since the motor will be out, will you be dropping the oil pan for any reason? If so, can you check to see how your thrust bearing surface is doing (#3 main bearing)? Reason being, we're still investigating my recent thrust bearing failure and I have one of the Garm sourced Aasco MS flywheels. One theory is that there is a difference in the stock flywheel and this Aasco MS flywheel, such that is it preloading the crank and wearing the thrust bearing surface out. I have a stock U20 pressure plate and disc on this flywheel. I sold my stock, lightened steel flywheel so I will also soon be looking for one locally to borrow for comparison. As I recall Spike had that same flywheel. Absolutely NOT saying you may be having a problem, or that Garm did anything wrong etc, just investigating and noted your situation! But, Ya might want to check...

[mraitch]

WELL, 1st ya gotta take it out. Clutch boot is to stop stuff getting in - does nothing the other way.

If it is just a leak, then probably nothing more than a bad seal. That you can do your self and also might as well do the rear. And check that that the pressure release plastic cap on the top is free/open.

I know that when Monty had the car we did nothing in that area.

Don't know if throwout bearing was replaced, but good to do, so you KNOW.

The BOX is completely sealed other than the seals, so don't honestly see the need to go elsewhere.

The ONLY question I would have (since we KNOW the engine is sorted) is whether anything was done to the transmission, i.e. is the 5th gear 'locked' in place. That is 'typically' the only 'known' problem with the 5-speed. If you can get certainty that 5th has been sorted, and you are not experiencing any shift problems, then replace seals and you are done.

Unless engine/transmission mounts look a bit dodgy. But they are easy to sort with transmission in place.

I have NO idea about transmissions as to whether ANY transmission shop can handle it. BUT, given your investment/involvement both current and future in Spike, perhaps you might want to send it to someone who KNOWS, if having it inspected,rebuilt is in your world. Depending on work needed, Skip will likely charge you $400+ish for work (for that, he took apart mine, and my spare, and combined the two with bearings from Dean.) You occur to me as someone who is going to keep/enjoy Spike (I know the car) so maybe it is appropriate to bite the bullet (give up a few rounds of golf <g>) and just get it sorted for the rest of your conservation period.

Personally, I LOVE Skip in Pasadena. I trust him, his prices are reasonable, his turnaround is acceptable, he is well trained and it doesn't cost that much to ship a tranny.

My 5 cents.

[Linda]

+1
Skip Miller, Miller Sports and Imports, Pasadena. He has worked on these cars forever and knows them well. Especially on a tranny, best to let him check it out . He could easily say to leave it if it just has a drip but shifts well, he doesn't do work that isn't needed unless you insist.
Highly recommended.
Linda

[SLOroadster]

There is a 510 guy in Atascadero named Larry Butler who knows how to work on the roadster 5 spds (he runs an ultra close box in his 510 race car.) He rebuild my transmission years ago. He should be able to replace the front shaft seal pretty easily. Heck, You could likely do it as well. I'm pretty sure the case comes apart pretty easily. (I can't remember off the top of my head, but last time I had mine apart it was pretty easy.)

Will

[MrGuts]

Thanks to each of you for thoughtful responses. I recall being told this transmission was gone through. Maybe by KRD. Harlan or Garm would know. So the 5th gear lock issue should be good. Still worth having it looked over. No issues with the trans at all aside from the leak.

What the car need, the car gets.

That said, I am thinking about an RX rear end from KRD while getting into this thing. Mostly for the disc brakes and that I want a bigger gear than I have now.

Changing the rear end will leave me with the 4.11 LSD rear end out of the car...

[MrGuts]

@Greg
I will have a look at the bearing and contact you when I am on it. Probably after the 1st of the year.

@Peter
Thanks for your ideas. You are right in your impressions about our investment in the car. We are willing to do what best in all instances even if its extra $$ for peace of mind to know what we have is always good to go. We drive this car alot.
...and LOVE it

@Will
Thanks for tip on Larry Butler. Name is familiar. As life goes on...most names seem familiar to me though. A local source will be great. Hope I can find him.

[mraitch]

it really is a simple job to get the case apart.

make sure the engine is resting upon something reasonable solid and with a bit of gentle prying and judicious use of a rubber mallet, it separates quite easily.

And seal replacement is a doddle.

Additional thought. How close is your speedometer to actual? You can put higher pinion counts in the box. But after 18/19 you need a different carrier to handle the increased width of the pinion.

Nissan still sells a part 32702-58SXX - where XX is the number of teeth. You MIGHT have to do a bit of filing to get a gear count between 17-18 (essentially re-notching the notch that holds the drive in) and certainly for 19+
Check the tech-wiki for detailed analysis chart/article by Ross and by nissanman.

[spyder]

OOps, I goofed up.

[mraitch]

@spyder - how so??

[redroadster]

Not overfilled ? U can under fill it without damage -light use
Vent is open ?

[SLOroadster]

@Greg
I will have a look at the bearing and contact you when I am on it. Probably after the 1st of the year.

@Peter
Thanks for your ideas. You are right in your impressions about our investment in the car. We are willing to do what best in all instances even if its extra $$ for peace of mind to know what we have is always good to go. We drive this car alot.
...and LOVE it

@Will
Thanks for tip on Larry Butler. Name is familiar. As life goes on...most names seem familiar to me though. A local source will be great. Hope I can find him.

Larry works at Ferrell's Auto Repair in Atascadero.

Will

[spyder]

@spyder - how so??

I was trying to PM.

[Young-gunroadster]

Hello fellow roadster owners- My 5-speed/U20 trans swapped 66 Roadster has a significant transmission leak from the rear tail housing... Suspecting a rear seal failure. Anyone know whether that can be fixed from underneath vs pulling the trans and engine. Any other thoughts/advice/experience shared is appreciated. Let me know- Farhad.

Trans was rebuilt by Rebello last year, i think it has been leaking since i got it back but just

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now getting to investigating; Hoping to make it to Solvang

[mraitch]

5 speed REAR can be done in situ - no need to pull anything - except drive shaft, obviously!