New to me '68 or '70

[Plagrone]

Just picked up this alleged 68 2000 if the VIN is any indication, but the title and the bodywork indicates '70...

Previous owner fiber glassed over a lot of rust. Found this behind a kicker panel while detailing... fortunately a right inner fender was included in the purchase.... along with. Completely rebuilt and blueprinted engine, still in its shipping crate. Anybody seen this car before?

[S Allen]

That is definitely not a 68. All indications point to it being a 1970-rear license lamps and side marker lamps are a dead give away. Good luck with the project.

S

[vinechoy]

Does the frame number match?
What does one do if they don't match?
Use the frame # or use the body tag?

Viney

[cole455]

[quote="vinechoy"]Does the frame number match?
What does one do if they don't match?
Use the frame # or use the body tag?

Viney[/quote]

In this case, whichever matches the title, I suppose...

[FairladySPL]

Not sure from your initial post where you are getting the 1968 VIN. Two or three areas are available to determine the VIN on unmolested examples of the 311: Frame rail, firewall plate, and for 1969 & 1970 the dashboard plate.

For licensing, the title you got from the seller is perhaps the most important part, even in Alabama if that's where you are. If that says 1970 for a model year, then your SRL-311-xxxxx should match 1970 production, and it's a matter of presenting physical evidence of the VIN if asked. Cars this old, perhaps not needed. Alabama was among the last "no title" states years ago, where all you had to submit was a notarized bill of sale and they'd issue a title that you could take to your home state and get fully licensed and documented.

As others have noted, the body work lines up as a 1970. That particular year had unique front parking lights with no chrome surrounds, and the square side marker lights you show. The inboard reflectors on the back, instead of little chrome ones above the upper taillight housing, are also specific to the 1970.

Check the dashboard, front corner, driver's side, viewed through the windshield. If it's a '68 there won't be any VIN plate there. If it's a '70, the number on the embedded VIN plate on the dashboard should match the square plate under the hood, attached with sheet metal screws on the top of the firewall (underneath the ZipLock bag in this set of photos.)

I hate to be a skeptic, but from the rust on this car and the multiple-choice model year discussion, I'd open up that crate and really have a good look at that U20. That could be the most salvageable part of this deal. Set it aside and go find a more solid body & frame to drop it into, and your project will be that much farther along in time for Summer.

You came to the right place by the way, this website is the best on the planet to support the 311.