EI Distributor Help

[Shanko]

Ok here is an update. After making sure that the engine was at TDC I realigned the gear as seen from the last picture posted. Dizzy went right in and I tightened it down at 0. The rotor was facing the number one plug on the distributer perfectly. The firing order is set to 1342 going counter clockwise on the dizzy. I manually turned the crank to 16 btdc and checked to see if the reluctor lined up and it did. Left the vacuum off the dizzy and started it. It fired right up and seems to be running good HOWEVER when I went to check the timing the two white marks on the pulley are still showing very far left of the pointer on the cover. This is were my confusion is coming in. I have included a photo of what I mean. Where the white arrow is pointing is where the timing marks on the pulley are when checking with the timing light.

[Linda]

So now as I understand it, you just need to time it.
Loosen the underneath bolt in the dizzy so that the dizzy will adjust in the slot the bolt rides in. The octane screw should be tight at 0.
Lightly tighten the timing adjusting bolt underneath to about the middle of the slot.
Now check the timing while motor is running and see if the timing cover pointer is getting closer to 16 BTDC. If it is then turn off motor, loosen the bolt so that you can adjust the dizzy while the motor is running and you are using the timing light to get to 16BTDC exactly. I actually adjust, tighten bolt, run motor, check timing, turn off motor, adjust and repeat because I don't like to risk getting shocked! Lol Takes longer but it works.
So you have just that last step to do.
Then when checking the reluctor etc after timing is set it should all turn out correct.
The RPM has to be low enough .
Also advance needs to be plugged.
I always had the octane selector set to 0 before dropping the dizzy in. Not sure if having it in then setting to 0 would affect anything.
See what you find and let us know.
Linda

[Datrock]

I don't have an EI dizzy but if someone who does can describe their adjustment locations for the top pointer and the bottom bolt position on their EI unit, basically where the dizzy is rotated too, this should get you very close, then put the light on it and loosen an adjustment bolt or two and rotated dizzy body until timing mark on damper aligns at 16 BTDC.

[Gregs672000]

Something's weird. The left-most timing mark in the pully is 0 or TDC. The far right mark is 20degrees advanced, and obviously the marks in between are in 5 degree increments. The only thing I can think of is that the vibration dampening part of your crank pully has broken and allowed the outer part of your crank pully to rotate considerably, or it was redone and not installed correctly on the inner part of the pully. Your description of the dizzy set up sounds correct, and everything there lined up as it should, and the engine is operating as it should I gather (the timing marks move to the left when reved up, showing increased advance to 30+ degrees). If this is the case, you can have your crank pully rebuilt by a place in CA, and they will set it up correctly. I had mine done but don't recall the facility, but it was from a post here on 311s so someone will know.

[Gregs672000]

Are you sure your attaching your light to number 1 plug wire? That's the only other error I can think of.

[Datrock]

To quick check the damper condition just put number one piston at true TDC and see where timing marks align. If they align correctly then your damper is fine and I feel that your still dealing with rotating the distributor to advance the marks on damper. But if the number 1 piston's true TDC ends up having the timing marks at the white arrow location then check the condition of the damper.

[Linda]

Good info. To review, TDC is when #1 piston is at the top of the compression stroke. With spark plug out as you are rotating the crank and the piston is rising, your finger over the plug hole will feel air being pushed out.
Pointer on cover will point to 0 on pulley.
Might be basic, but for some readers this might be unknown.
Linda

[Gregs672000]

I simply cannot imagine the engine would rev if the timing marks are showing what looks like about 45+ degrees advance at idle per the white arrow. The engine would be fighting itself so much it could not possible advance, let alone run much beyond idle... The spark would be occurring way before it should as the piston is still near the bottom of its stroke... Can't happen.

Either you're attaching your light to the wrong plug wire or your dampener or timing marks are incorrect. At least that's the way I'm seeing it!

[Datrock]

If I remember right, the #2 and #3 spark happens 180 degrees from factory markings on the damper, #4 spark would show back up at the factory markings.

[msampsel]

I simply cannot imagine the engine would rev if the timing marks are showing what looks like about 45+ degrees advance at idle per the white arrow. The engine would be fighting itself so much it could not possible advance, let alone run much beyond idle... The spark would be occurring way before it should as the piston is still near the bottom of its stroke... Can't happen.

Either you're attaching your light to the wrong plug wire or your dampener or timing marks are incorrect. At least that's the way I'm seeing it!

Looks like it is occuring ~40 degrees after TDC not before per the white arrow in the figure (CW rotation of the pulley) if the light is attached to #1. As stated before your thumb or finger on cylinder number one hole (plug removed) should feel the compressed gas on the compression stroke.

You can see then if the pulley mark is pointing at the correct location. Then report back we are all anxious!
Should never take more than 2 complete revolutions of the crank pulley to find TDC.

[Gregs672000]

No, it's advanced. As the mark moves left it means the spark is occurring earlier in the compression stroke in order to give the fuel more time to burn. If as noted putting the timing light on the wrong plug wire does not explain it, the only answer then is the pully is screwed up IMHO.

[JT68]

It is really easy to check to see if the harmonic balancer/pulley is screwed up. Rotate the crank to put the timing pointer at the 1st BIG notch - that is TDC. Pull the #1 spark plug and with a flashlight check to see if the piston is at TDC. (rotate the crank a couple degrees left right to verify the piston is all the way up)

If that is right, it isn't the pulley. j

[msampsel]

It is really easy to check to see if the harmonic balancer/pulley is screwed up. Rotate the crank to put the timing pointer at the 1st BIG notch - that is TDC. Pull the #1 spark plug and with a flashlight check to see if the piston is at TDC. (rotate the crank a couple degrees left right to verify the piston is all the way up)

If that is right, it isn't the pulley. j

Except you might need to rotate 360 degrees. As it could be number 4's compression.

[Shanko]

Hi everyone,
I am pretty positive I have the timing light on #1 which is the first plug at the front of the engine as I understand it. I will put at Tdc again and check markings and update you all soon.

[JT68]

It is really easy to check to see if the harmonic balancer/pulley is screwed up. Rotate the crank to put the timing pointer at the 1st BIG notch - that is TDC. Pull the #1 spark plug and with a flashlight check to see if the piston is at TDC. (rotate the crank a couple degrees left right to verify the piston is all the way up)

If that is right, it isn't the pulley. j

Except you might need to rotate 360 degrees. As it could be number 4's compression.

No, sorry to correct M, but this is just to check to see if the outer ring of the harmonic balancer has slipped.
(what MS said applies only to the distributor pointer location and cam position)


#1 and #4 pistons are both at TDC when the crank is on the TDC indication.


The suggestion was that potentially the timing marks are out of place on the pulley. That is rare, but possible.
Lets take it one step at a time.


j